Saturday, April 20, 2024

The moon and it’s splendid glory


Our dinghies resting at Alfonso's, Mantanchen Bay
We had the incredible opportunity of experiencing the solar eclipse - sitting on the stern of our boat - on April 8th in Mazatlan, Sinaloa. We bobbed happily in Marina Mazatlan and watched, with so many others, as the experience unfolded. It was awesome and breathtaking. The crowds and atmosphere were hushed in awe, well except for some joker on another boat playing Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon. I guess they couldn’t help but break the beautiful silence. There for a moment after a few minutes, you get to thinking, boy I hope this darkness passes - because it’s on the cusp of a Sci-Fi movie. 

While everyone is lauding the performance of the sun during the eclipse, I am thinking the moon should get some pretty top billing, too. In fact, the next night, as we left Mazatlan on our journey south through the night, the moon shone in its brief glory. 

As the sun dropped into the dark blue sea, the tiniest crescent of moon appeared above the afterglow on the horizon and hung there, mostly in shadow except for a slice of bumpy white bottom. It was as if to say, I have a lot of tricks up my sleeve. If you thought yesterday was cool, check this out. And so I did and thought I was pretty darn lucky to have both experiences, so different from one day to the next. 

Whilst I tried to take photos, a sloshing boat is not conducive to taking photos of the delicate moon phase. It was a very rough night for me. Seasick, doing my best to keep my 'shift' from 7 - midnight but alas, that was not to be. It became a tough night for both of us. For me, the sometimes cruel rock n roll of the sea; for Mike, the broken cadence of getting any sleep between my issues. Bottom line, we are still talking!
Can't show you the moon but the sunset was nice

I really have a thing about the moon. It’s a very important part of our boating lives with the monthly changes in nature, from tides to night brightness, to watching the waxing and waning as the days pass. And I just happen to like the mystery associated with it, as well. 

Pool privileges at Marina Vallarta, Dock M

We are in Puerto Vallarta docked happily at Marina Vallarta and earlier this week, walked through the evening artisanal market along the malecon. Along with buying Oaxacan tamales and Venezuelan empanadas, there was plenty of stuff to admire, but it was a young lady selling botanical art that drew me in. Wearing floral jewelry, according to her, "harmonizes us  and guides us  towards well-being".  Well, there you go. I am happy with my selection. The crescent moon is filled with lantana, a local flower sealed in resin. 


Filling water jugs at Chacala

Yacca fruit at San Blas

At the dock Marina Vallarta
Since my last writing and this last moon cycle, we’ve covered a lot of nautical miles and plenty of miles walking: 

 El Quelite – taxi ride from Mazatlan with our friends, along with a stop near La Noria, where we had a fabulous tour and tasting at Los Osuna, distillery of tequila (in their words: Tequila in the Process, But Not from the Region – as true tequila is made from blue agave grown in the tequila “AVA”). Our bilingual guide was fabulous and informative. 

Incredible natural history museum in CDMX
Mexico City – we had a most pleasant flight on Aero Mexico, where we spent 6 days exploring around the massive city based out of our nice Air BNB in Roma Sur. Mexico City (CDMX) is truly an overwhelming place! We went during Easter week as we’d learned from more than one Mexican that it’s the least crowded time in CDMX as the “locals” are off to the beaches. There’s still a ton of people and traffic and noise. 

Following the eclipse, we left Mazatlan on April 9th and have sailed ~ 206 NM, via: 

Great but buggy eve at the beach, Mantanchen

Mangrove and crocodile tour


Mantanchen Bay / San Blas – known for their unforgiving no see ums and banana bread, we did the Kiekari mangrove nature-filled boat ride and crocodile tour while Alonso watched our dinghies on shore. Alonso was the guy at the palapa bar and in his genuine effort to provide excellent customer service, drove Mike in his car to buy tequila since he only offered cerveza and Mike is allergic to beer. After the long ride to town and the local liquor shop, we felt like we needed to sit on the beach to enjoy that specially secured beverage, 30-30 brand reposado (not recommended). While we sat on the beach, Alonso burned extensive coconut husks and shells for us as the smoke reduces bug attacks. Regardless, Mike and I served as a very tasty dinner for those little bastards, and we’ve suffered the itchy, red welts for many, many days. 
Guacamole & margs at Chacala

Chacala – where banda music fills the anchorage all night, and the expanse of beach and beach-front palapas are filled with visitors from all over. 

La Cruz – a sleepy village that we have some history with from prior visits, but it has grown up dramatically since our last visit in 2016. 

Puerto Vallarta – a bustling sprawling city that’s a 10-peso (~.59) bus ride from our marina. It’s such a delight with many offerings of color, food, entertainment, nature and so much to experience. We’re planning our zip line, horse / mule, and ATV ride for this week. We have a few more days before moving on to new adventures and are deciding our possible routes north. We’re still with our buddy boating friends who we’ve been with for several weeks. Since they are on a cat and we are on a heavy monohull, we travel at different paces.
Mantanchen Bay - Alfonso's palapa

at the dock, Marina Vallarta

Basilica Guadalupe, PV


Let's work on the engine for a change

Los Osuna tasting - we did a good job!

Aztec art at the natural history museum

Our lady of Fatima altar - PV

Low hanging yacca fruit-San Blas


Tuesday, March 19, 2024

Happy Birthday, Benito Juarez

Leaving the fuel dock in Puerto
Escondido - compliments of our
friends on True North

This year the birthday celebration takes place on Monday March 18th. As a guest here, we do our best to be aware of holidays, as many places in Mazatlán (and frankly everywhere in Mexico), will be closed to honor and celebrate the birth of Benito Juarez. He is considered the most popular Mexican president of the 19th century. Juárez was called Benemérito de las Américas ("Meritorious of America"), a recognition he received due to his triumphs in the French intervention and in favor of the freedom and independence of Mexico. He is the only individual whose birthday (21 March) is celebrated as a national public and patriotic holiday in Mexico. A great abundance of cities, streets, institutions, and other locations are named in his honor throughout the country. [information courtesy of the Mexican Government @ https://www.gob.mx/sep/articulos/conmemoramos-el-natalicio-del-expresidente-de-mexico-benito-juarez]

on a mooring ball- Puerto Escondido

So, from this lead in, you’ll ascertain that we made it from Guaymas to Mazatlán over the last month! We’ve traversed more than 530 nautical miles, crossing from the mainland to Baja on February 13 and celebrating Valentine’s Day en route to Puerto Escondido. On this overnight journey, I had the waxing crescent moon to illuminate from behind for a few hours before the orange ‘smile’ melted into the blackness of the sea. Oh so magical!

2nd night sunset & crescent moon

Leaving Bahia de los Muertos @5pm

Cool sunset cloud action on Day 2

Marina Cortez, La Paz. Red arrow points to 
our 'tiny boat' among the Big Boys

In Puerto Escondido, we met up with friends there and spent a few glorious days of companionship, fine weather, killer sunsets, hiking, and enjoying the amenities of the Marina at Puerto Escondido and the charming town of Loreto, a rental car ride away from the marina. The big deal was that we’d escaped the Guaymas dock (!) and continue to be thankful every day for the blessings and opportunities that come our way as we explore Mexico.

A week later – and weather permitting – we headed south to meet up with friends in Los Gatos. They’d been patiently waiting for us as we had boat issues then weather delays for many days before departing Guaymas. The Northers are strong during winter months and heavily impact travel options as you traverse the Sea of Cortez.

We’ve been buddy boating with our Guaymas buds since Los Gatos, bumping along to enjoy various anchorages on our way south, ending up for almost two weeks in La Paz - for a variety of reasons. Whilst in La Paz, we thankfully had some great times with long-time sailing friends, along with some amazing meals and fun margarita outings. The sad boat remnants of the October hurricane are still raw there and remind us of the power of Mother Nature.

Squid on board!

Exiting the La Paz bay to align with high tide so we moved out with the flow, we stopped at Bonanza on Espiritu Santo and Bahia de Los Muertos further south to prepare us for the 190-mile crossing. At about 5 NM per hour, we crossed from Baja to Mazatlán in 41 hours. “Two sleeps” later, with calm seas, extremely light winds and motor sailing the entire way, illuminated briefly by another waxing moon, we arrived at the harbor entrance into Mazatlán. 

As sometimes happens during the night, the little squid jump up and land on our deck. We had quite a suicidal crowd of them on Day 2 early AM.

We planned our departure carefully to arrive at high tide so we could experience a mild passage into the harbor. Our last experience was extremely dicey, so we scheduled accordingly! Aside from the large dredge that greets you at the entrance, along with speeding pangas and party trimarans with music blaring exiting the marina, we made a smooth entrance into the busy harbor, sidling into a lovely slip at Marina Mazatlán.


Tecno Diesel - Carlos & staff
Mike removed 4 injectors from our Perkins 4154 engine and we took them to Tecno Diesel. This is their modest and busy little shop. Carlos will come to Pura Vida tomorrow (post holiday) to work on the engine with Mike.

I hiked to the local fuel station to refill our 20 liter jerry cans with diesel, one at a time, 7 runs.  Started at 7am so it was cooler and less traffic. There was a little taco cart that was rocking with business non-stop down the road from the Arco station, so I just had to stop to pick up tacos for


breakfast. It's a common breakfast here. Tasty b'fast.

Marina Mazatlan at sunset

I’ll say again how thrilled we are to be here, as our last journey to Pacific mainland coast was 2016! Looking back at our ship’s log – realizing, that’s eons ago. But in the intervening years as I’ve mentioned before, our health, work, and various boat projects (oh, and Covid) kept us from making it this far.

In the coming weeks, our next destinations include the town of El Quelite by taxi with Pancho (where they make Los Osuna tequila), Mexico City by plane and sailing down to Puerto Vallarta and other points along the Pacific coast.



Restaurante 1535 @ Bahia de los Muertos
- fish burrito, enchiladas, margaritas!


Happy campers before crossing to the mainland


This is the engine head- result of Mike spending
'quality time' in the engine room

Monday, February 12, 2024

The DNA of our winter months

An angel getting ready for the parade
Neptune and the sea
 
The DNA of our winter months
It’s already carnival time here in Guaymas and the air is filled with tons of competing music, the roads are jammed with parade floats and barricades, and people are thriving in the festivities. This year, the festival is very active and today is Day 3 of 4 of the colorful parade. We’ve wandered through the rides and along the parade route until we’ve had our fill of sights, sounds and people. This year, I didn’t see any Pokemon lights as a prize along the midway games, so I skipped the games this time. I have to be happy with my two treasured Pokemon lights in our floating home.


However! I did score the best light ever from our friends who borrowed our Sam's Club card and had to renew the membership - the gift was a truly funky light (remember the old days when you'd get a toaster at the bank!) Rechargeable, color changing and totally disco light which lights up our salon at night. 

Tomorrow, we are planning our departure from the dock heading toward Loreto on the Baja. We hope to meet up with friends there, and head down to Isla Carmen and beyond to catch up with other friends who left before the heavy wind event we’ve had the last week. It’s the same weather front that pummeled California so no surprise that wind and weather headed to Mexico.

We’ve had a very active time since December including more trips to Arizona, a road trip through the back roads of Sonora, including a stop in Bacanora where they make the local moonshine. And, what road trip could be complete without a stop in Moctezuma. Oh and by the way, the tiny tienda/restaurant across from the "tourist office" was sold out of bacanora, so we left empty-handed but happy for the stop.

The source of the wicked moonshine

Dudes doing the deed to make bacanora






Our stop in Moctezuma included a visit to the church, the town square and a bathroom break at the local Pemex gas station. While wandering around to find the building with the bathroom, I see a lady selling used clothing alongside the bathroom building. I ask her how much for the baño  and she says no charge BUT I do have galletas (cookies) for sale at the gas station. So of course, we bought the cornmeal cookies and she was very happy. I ask her for a recommendation for a local restaurant (after all, there were 5 or 6 along the town square). She suggests a place, we go and it's run by her sister. This is all in Spanish- every day I am thankful for my language skills. Although I do get myself into trouble sometimes... 

During our winter months, we’ve had the extreme pleasure of seeing and hanging out with a ton of our friends. We are so thankful for our tribe here. I can't say enough about the importance of friends!!

What can I say - we had a great lunch here
Throughout January, Mike received 4 knee injections to help postpone knee replacement. It’s a different modality than he received with the orthopedic Dr. in La Paz. Because of the many issues in La Paz with the hurricane last September, we decided we’d prefer to avoid going there this year so were glad to find a local doctor. Mike’s happy with the results and we recommend Dr. Merino!

Boat-wise, we completed a myriad of installations, repairs, upgrades and fun stuff to make our boat more fabulous. It is after all, our home. We’ve had our share of ups and downs in the process – we are very blessed with excellent vendors, good resources and plenty of taco stands!

And for those who wonder how Mike spends his time


Lady making tortillas on an open fire

Our Lady of Guadalupe - full size sculpture across
from our hotel room on a road trip. Felt safe!

OK, so these 5 ladies are lined up
for the parade with 2+ cases of 
beer at their feet (everybody brings
their own beer although 
there's plenty for sale)
 - that ought to get them
through the several hours of the parade

Banda band ready to jump on their float
with red sequined jackets and the head 
guy of the parade (mayor?)

Scantily clad young girls by the hundreds

Blessings to you and yours



Saturday, December 23, 2023

Merry Christmas & Wishing you a Joyous New Year

While we are happily afloat at the dock in Guaymas once again this Christmas season, it provides us time to reflect on this amazing year. We are thankful for so much in our lives! Our many friends – both south and north, our families – distant though they are, the staff at the Fonatur boatyard, and the multiple vendors who help us stay afloat. The list goes on and on… 
Wiring in the new batteries, happy full
days in the engine room for the Cap'n

Installing repaired water pump

Up the mast with Doug's help
Early Christmas in Nogales AZ, picking up our new batteries

The Ups and Downs of Boat-Love

We continue to enjoy the ups and downs of our boating lives on Pura Vida - from the top of the mast installing a new navigation light, to the hull installing a new zinc on the freshly polished prop – to every pump and part installation in between.

New curtains, thanks to Marion's sewing skills

Oscar & Mario tearing out the old nasty walls and
pink insulation

Judy removing the port bezels before tearing down
the old wall coverings

New walls in sleeping area and our V-berth - nice 
to get rid of the 47 year old vinyl and rusty staples

And then there's the interesting lifestyle in Mexico - very different from our "first world problems".

Sunsets never cease to amaze and astound us

Sunrise the next morning across San Carlos Bay

Truckload of workers on their way home

This year's display features Cheetohs


Ready to launch, the travel lift is 
approaching from the stern
to haul us to the ramp